Nkhata Bay is the northern lakeshore's proper town — a working harbour rather than a resort strip. The hills come down steeply to the water and the bay is deep right up to the shore, which gives it a different character from the long sandy beaches further south: rocky coves, forest to the waterline, and swimming straight off the rocks into clear water.
It is a stop on the Ilala, the lake steamer that has been working these shores since 1951, and the harbour has the bustle that goes with it — fish coming in, boats loading, a market that is busy every day of the week.
Most visitors come for the water. The snorkelling off the rocky points is very good, there are kayaks, and the standard lazy afternoon is to swim, eat fresh fish and do nothing at all. It is the place in Malawi where people tend to stay a day longer than they planned.
Best time to visit Nkhata Bay
April to November
The lake is clearest and calmest through the dry months, which is when the snorkelling is at its best. December to March brings the rains, warmer water and heavier afternoon storms — still pleasant, but visibility underwater drops. The town itself is worth seeing whenever the Ilala is in.
Getting there
About an hour from Mzuzu by road, and around six hours up the lakeshore from Senga Bay. The Ilala ferry also calls here, which makes it a natural place to join or leave a lake crossing.
